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Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, by Tom Mueller
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The sacred history and profane present of a substance long seen as the essence of health and civilization.
For millennia, fresh olive oil has been one of life's necessities-not just as food but also as medicine, a beauty aid, and a vital element of religious ritual. Today's researchers are continuing to confirm the remarkable, life-giving properties of true extra-virgin, and "extra-virgin Italian" has become the highest standard of quality.But what if this symbol of purity has become deeply corrupt? Starting with an explosive article in The New Yorker, Tom Mueller has become the world's expert on olive oil and olive oil fraud-a story of globalization, deception, and crime in the food industry from ancient times to the present, and a powerful indictment of today's lax protections against fake and even toxic food products in the United States. A rich and deliciously readable narrative, Extra Virginity is also an inspiring account of the artisanal producers, chemical analysts, chefs, and food activists who are defending the extraordinary oils that truly deserve the name "extra-virgin." 25 black-and-white illustrations
- Sales Rank: #275767 in Books
- Brand: W.W. Norton & Co
- Published on: 2011-12-05
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.60" h x 1.00" w x 6.50" l, 1.20 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
Amazon.com Review
Amazon Best Books of the Month, December 2011: E.V.O.O. just got a whole lot more complicated. Tom Mueller's Extra Virginity is about as explosive as an expose can get, at least if your subject is liquid fat. The road from tree to table, it turns out, is fraught with corruption, fraud, and laboratory interventions. Mueller shows how and why the trade in adulterated olive oil is about as profitable as the trade in some hard drugs, and with a lot less risk, too. There are equally entertaining detours into olive oil's long history, the politics of regulation and enforcement, and even debates over the best way to taste it (swirl, aerate, spit, or just swig?). All in all, it's a great read not just for foodies, but also for anyone interested in the complexities of global trade and organized crime. --Darryl Campbell
Review
(Starred review) Engrossing history, vivid contemporary reporting and a cogent call to action, expertly blended in an illuminating text.
Starred review. Engrossing history, vivid contemporary reporting and a cogent call to action, expertly blended in an illuminating text. "
The New Yorker writer does for his subject what Susan Orlean did for orchids. "
... [Extra-Virginity] does for olive oil what Eric Schlosser s Fast Food Nation did for hamburgers. Mueller traces the history of this valuable product from antiquity to the present, but the really disturbing part is his expose of the inferior quality control and outright fraud among today s oil producers. "
How long have readers been waiting for a book like this? A century? A millennium? Finally, the earth's most poetic food has found its storyteller. Essential, smart, and ridiculously overdue. --Bill Buford, author of Heat"
About the Author
Tom Mueller writes for The New Yorker and other publications. He lives in a medieval stone farmhouse surrounded by olive groves in the Ligurian countryside outside of Genoa, Italy.
Most helpful customer reviews
102 of 106 people found the following review helpful.
Loving an endangered species
By Blue in Washington
An interview with author Tom Mueller on NPR's "Splendid Table" program led me to buy the book. Mueller is just as passionate in person about his subject--great olive oil--as he is in his writing. He is equally strong in chronicling his outrage over what the greed of producers and distributors is doing to undermine the quality of the product. All of this is laid out at length in "Extra Virginity". And it is the extensive investigatory reporting on the greed and criminality that makes the book drag considerably. Still, it does make his warnings and buying counsel to consumers of olive oil the more convincing, even if it makes the book more difficult to read.
What I (gratefully) did get from this book were some great sources to find authentic extra virgin olive oil and a persuasive argument that quality in the product does matter for culinary and health reasons. These are two good reasons to buy Mueller's book. And here's a tip to perspective readers who might, like me, tire of the long passages about Italian oil criminality or semi-cryptic descriptions of olive oil's chemical makeup: you can skip to page 221 of the book where begins Mueller's detailed Appendix, and where you will find all of the information you need to locate, buy and appreciate authentic extra virgin olive oil of any origin. It includes what to avoid as well as how and when to purchase. I have used the information and bought my first Mueller-recommended oil--a Spanish label, Castillo de Canena, that is every good thing that Mueller promised it would be, including crushingly expensive.
Finally, here are a few important things that the reader will get from this book: most extra virgin olive oil sold in the U.S. probably isn't extra virgin oil; to get the good stuff, you have to pay a premium; olive oil is great for your health, if you get the right stuff; the color of the oil doesn't indicate quality; point of origin indicated on the label of any olive oil doesn't relate to quality; there is no single country that produces "the best olive oil".
So, although this may not be the easiest-flowing book, overall it's a fine source of information about an important and interesting food product that is a big plus to quality of life.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Informational, yet a tad boring
By TruxtonSpangler
Being an informational book, this was excellent. The problem with it is that it got repetitive. I understand the author's zeal to right the wrongs of the olive oil industry, and perhaps the story is a one-note song: Everyone's corrupt but for a few souls who are dedicated to get the oil industry right. The trouble with that is that it makes for a slog of a read after awhile. I appreciate Mr. Mueller's knowledge of the subject, his interest in seeing this corrected and his passion for the subject. Unfortunately, the subject matter didn't lend itself to a riveting book. It also saddened me in that from the sounds of it, the only way I can be sure to have premium quality olive oil is to pay through the nose for it (and still trust that it's authentic) or have my own olive garden. Sadly, I don't live in an area where olive trees survive, much less thrive.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Do you like Extra Virgin Olive Oil? Are you sure?
By xmarc999
Mr Mueller has a love for EVOO...and is in disbelief over the blatant exploitation of a sublime title being applied to stuff just this side of motor oil. He explains how, despite technological developments, extra virgin olive oil is a labor of love...one with a small profit margin. What makes this such a rough business is an industry wide inclination to cheat, mislabel, bedazzle and confuse.The artisans putting their heart and soul into extracting a divine elixir are little match (financially) for chemists deodorizing funky oil, hucksters selling pomace oil (the lowest grade) as EVOO, and complacent officials protecting corruption. All is not black and white, and he does not back away from the gray. He writes equally compellingly of history, and of those on all sides of this convoluted story.
I can only add that if let one drop of olive oil pass your lips, you should read this book. I am now in the midst of planning an olive oil vacation here in the States; something I would not have imagined before reading this book.
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